Cross stitch is one of those lovely crafts that can look much more complicated than it really is. At its heart, it is simply a series of small X-shaped stitches worked onto an evenly woven fabric. With a pattern, fabric, embroidery floss, a tapestry needle and a little patience, you can begin creating something beautiful, even if you have never picked up a needle before.
One of the things we love most about cross stitch is how gently it asks you to slow down. You do not need to learn everything at once. You simply follow the chart, one square and one stitch at a time, and gradually the picture begins to appear.
In this guide, we will walk you through the entire process, from choosing your supplies to making your first stitch and finishing your completed piece.
Step 1: Gather your cross stitch supplies
You only need a few basic supplies to begin: a pattern, stitching fabric, embroidery floss, a blunt tapestry needle, small scissors and, if you prefer, a hoop or frame.
For a first project, one of our beginner cross stitch kits can be a lovely place to start. The pattern and supplies have already been chosen to work together, which means you can spend less time wondering what you need and more time enjoying your first stitches.
When choosing a pattern, look for a manageable finished size, clearly printed symbols and mostly full cross stitches. A design with fewer colours may feel easier at first, but the most important thing is to choose something you genuinely love.
You are far more likely to keep stitching when the design makes you happy each time you pick it up.
Our cross stitch patterns include everything from gentle florals and traditional samplers to seasonal designs and whimsical folk art. We carry patterns from many designers we love, including Antique Needleworkers, Bent Creek, Brenda Gervais of With Thy Needle and Thread, Dirty Annie’s, Cross Stitch Antiques, JBW Designs, Olde Colonial Designs, Teresa Kogut Creative Whims, Plum Street Samplers, Stacy Nash Designs, The Proper Stitcher, The Stitchery Sisters, Textilly Crafts, Mindful Needle, Cotton Pixels, Atelier Soed Idee, Shepherd’s Bush and Reflets de Soie.
Some patterns are simple and quiet, while others are wonderfully detailed. Choose according to your own style rather than worrying too much about finding the perfect beginner design. A pattern that truly appeals to you will always be the most inviting place to begin.
Step 2: Choose your cross stitch fabric
Cross stitch is worked on fabric with an evenly spaced grid.
The most common choices are Aida, and evenweave linen. Aida has clearly defined blocks and holes, which makes it easy to see where each stitch should be placed. It is often recommended for beginners, but it is certainly not the only fabric on which you can learn.
Evenweave linen has a softer, more traditional appearance and are the fabrics we most often reach for at Willow Cottage. They are commonly stitched “over two,” which means each cross stitch is worked across two fabric threads rather than one.
What does fabric count mean?
The fabric count tells you how many threads or squares there are in one inch of fabric.
Our cross stitch fabrics by count range from 28 count through 46 count. When linen is stitched over two threads, the effective stitch size is half the fabric count.
For example, 28 count stitched over two creates approximately the same stitch size as 14-count Aida. Thirty-two count stitched over two is similar to 16-count Aida, while 36 count creates a slightly finer and more delicate result.
For someone new to linen, our 28-count fabrics or 32-count fabrics are often a comfortable place to begin. The fabric threads are easier to see, and the finished stitches are not exceptionally small.
As your confidence grows, you may enjoy experimenting with 36-count fabric, 40-count fabric or even 46-count fabric. These finer counts create a beautifully delicate finish, particularly for traditional samplers and detailed designs.
Which cross stitch fabric should you choose?
Different fabric makers offer their own colours, textures and finishes.
Zweigart is a wonderful choice when you would like a dependable, evenly woven fabric in a classic colour. Hand-dyed fabrics from Fox and Rabbit, Weeks Dye Works, Fiber on a Whim, Tabbycat, Dames of a Needle and Hometown Fibers add beautiful depth and subtle variation to a finished piece.
Because these fabrics are dyed by hand, each piece may look slightly different. We think that gentle variation is part of what makes them so special.
Acufactum fabrics are especially lovely for projects that combine cross stitch with sewing, patchwork or decorative finishing, while Mason Linen and Needlebling Designs offer still more beautiful options for creating a particular mood or palette.
You can browse our cross stitch fabrics by brand when you are ready to explore the different finishes and colours. Our collection includes Acufactum, Dames of a Needle, Fiber on a Whim, Fox and Rabbit, Hometown Fibers, Mason Linen, Tabbycat, Weeks Dye Works, Zweigart and Needlebling Designs.
There is no single fabric that is right for every project. Consider the pattern, thread colours and the feeling you would like the finished piece to have.
Step 3: Check the finished size and cut your fabric
Before cutting your fabric, look at the stitch count listed on your pattern.
Most patterns will tell you the width and height in stitches, the recommended fabric count and the approximate finished size.
If you are stitching over one fabric thread, divide the design’s stitch count by the fabric count.
When stitching over two threads, divide the fabric count by two first.
For example, a 140-stitch-wide design worked over two on 28-count linen has an effective count of 14 stitches per inch:
28 ÷ 2 = 14
140 ÷ 14 = 10 inches
The stitched area will be approximately 10 inches wide.
The same design worked over two on 32-count linen would be:
32 ÷ 2 = 16
140 ÷ 16 = 8.75 inches
The higher the fabric count, the smaller the finished design will be.
Be sure to leave at least 2 to 3 inches of extra fabric around every side of the design.
You may want to leave even more if you plan to frame the piece, make it into a cushion or add it to another sewing project. It is always much easier to trim away extra fabric later than to realize you have not left enough.
Cross stitch fabric can fray as you work, so you may also want to finish the edges before beginning. You can do this with a zigzag stitch, a serger, a temporary fabric-safe edge product or low-tack painter’s tape.
If you use tape, remove it carefully once your stitching is complete and avoid leaving it on the fabric for a long period.
Step 4: Find the center of the fabric and pattern
Many cross stitch projects are started in the center.
Beginning in the center helps position the design properly and ensures that you have enough fabric around every side.
To find the center of your fabric:
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Fold the fabric in half from left to right.
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Lightly crease the fold.
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Fold it in half again from top to bottom.
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The point where the folds meet is the center.
You can also mark the spot with a small piece of thread or a removable fabric marker if you would rather not crease your fabric.
Next, find the center of the pattern.
Most charts have small arrows along the top, bottom and sides. Follow the horizontal and vertical arrows until they meet. This marks the center of the design.
You do not always have to begin on the exact center stitch, but beginning in that general area is usually the simplest method for a first project.
Step 5: Place the fabric in a hoop or frame
An embroidery hoop is optional, but many stitchers find it easier to work when the fabric is held smooth and evenly.
To place your fabric in the hoop:
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Loosen the screw and separate the two rings.
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Place the smaller ring on a flat surface.
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Lay the fabric over the ring.
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Position the larger ring over the fabric.
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Press it gently into place.
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Tighten the screw.
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Pull the fabric lightly around the edges until it feels smooth.
The fabric should feel firm, but it should not be stretched so tightly that the weave becomes distorted.
Some stitchers prefer to hold the fabric in their hands without using a hoop at all. Neither method is more correct than the other. Try both and see what feels most comfortable for you.
We also recommend removing the fabric from the hoop when you are finished stitching for the day. This helps prevent deep hoop marks from forming.
Once the stitching is complete, a simple decorative frame can become part of the finished piece. Our finishing sets and frames are especially helpful when you would like a beautiful finish without having to gather every element separately.
Step 6: Learn how to read the chart
A cross stitch pattern is simply a map of the finished design.
Each square on the chart represents one cross stitch, and each symbol represents a particular thread colour.
The pattern key will usually show you the symbol, corresponding thread colour, thread number, number of strands and stitch type.
Find the symbol at or near the center of your chart, then look for the matching colour in the pattern key.
At first, the full chart may look like a great deal of information. Try not to look at the entire thing at once. Instead, focus on one small area and one colour at a time.
Many charts are divided into 10-by-10 stitch sections to make counting easier. You may also find it helpful to mark completed stitches with a pencil or highlighter as you work.
Our stitch markers and counting pins can be useful when working on linen or evenweave, particularly when you want to mark a starting point or keep track of a larger section without marking the fabric itself.
Some stitchers prefer a magnetic board, while others use a digital pattern app. Choose whichever method helps you feel relaxed and confident rather than worried about losing your place.
Step 7: Prepare and thread the embroidery floss
Embroidery floss usually contains six strands twisted together.
The number of strands you use will depend on the fabric count, the pattern instructions and the amount of coverage you prefer.
Two strands are often used on lower-count fabric. Many stitchers use one strand on finer counts such as 36, 40 or 46 count.
Always begin with the designer’s recommendation, but remember that thread coverage is also a matter of personal preference.
Cut a piece of floss approximately 18 inches long.
It can be tempting to use a very long length so you do not need to rethread your needle as often, but shorter lengths are much easier to manage. They are less likely to twist, knot or become worn as they pass repeatedly through the fabric.
To separate the strands:
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Hold the cut length of floss near one end.
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Gently pull out one strand.
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Repeat until you have the number of strands you need.
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Place the strands together again before threading the needle.
Pulling the strands out one at a time helps prevent tangles and allows them to lie more smoothly.
Cross stitch is usually worked with a blunt tapestry needle. The needle should pass comfortably through the fabric without noticeably enlarging the holes.
Our Tulip needles include several sizes suited to different fabric counts. They are a favourite for their smooth finish and comfortable feel in the hand.
A small amount of thread conditioner can also be helpful when working with threads that are especially prone to tangling, fraying or static. You can look forward to a blog post in the near future which explores various types of embroidery floss and how to choose the right floss for your project.
Step 8: Start your thread without a knot
Cross stitch is usually started without tying a knot.
Knots can create little bumps on the back of the fabric and may show through when the piece is framed.
One of the easiest ways to begin is with a loop start.
How to use a loop start
The loop-start method works when you are stitching with two strands of the same colour.
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Cut one long strand of embroidery floss.
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Fold it in half.
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Thread the two loose ends through the needle.
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Bring the needle up through the fabric, leaving the folded loop at the back.
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Make the first half of your stitch.
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Pass the needle through the loop on the back.
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Pull gently to secure the thread.
You can also begin by leaving a short tail on the back and stitching over it with your first few stitches.
Either method works beautifully. The goal is simply to secure the thread without creating a bulky knot.
Step 9: Make your first cross stitch
A full cross stitch is made from two diagonal stitches that cross to form an X.
When stitching over two on linen or evenweave, each leg of the X travels across two fabric threads.
You have now completed your very first cross stitch. How exciting!
You may begin from a different corner if that feels more natural. The important thing is to keep the direction consistent.
All of the lower stitches should lean in the same direction, and all of the upper stitches should lean in the opposite direction.
This simple habit gives the finished stitching a smooth and even appearance.
When several stitches of the same colour are next to one another, you can stitch a row of half crosses in one direction, then work back across the row to complete each X.
This is often called the Danish method.
You can also complete one X at a time. Both methods are correct, and most stitchers use a combination of the two depending on the pattern.
Step 10: Follow the pattern one section at a time
Once you have completed your first few stitches, continue following the symbols on the chart.
A simple way to work is to choose one colour, stitch the nearby symbols, mark the completed area on the chart and then move to the next section or colour.
Count carefully before moving into a new area. A single counting mistake can shift a whole section of the design, so it is always worth checking your count from more than one direction.
Keep your thread tension gentle and even. The floss should rest smoothly on the fabric without pulling the holes out of shape.
If the fabric begins to pucker, you may be pulling too tightly.
Embroidery floss naturally twists as you stitch. Every so often, let the needle hang freely below the fabric. The thread will spin and untwist itself.
This is one of those small habits that can make stitching feel much easier.
You may carry the thread across the back when the next stitch is nearby, but avoid carrying it over long distances. Long travelling threads may show through light fabric or become caught during finishing.
When the next section is more than a few stitches away, it is usually best to end the thread and begin again.
A needleminder is a small accessory, but it quickly becomes one of those things you wonder how you managed without. It gives your needle a safe place to rest when you pause or change colours, rather than leaving it tucked into the fabric, the chair or, far too often, your clothing.
Step 11: End threads, change colours and correct mistakes
When your thread becomes short or you finish a section:
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Turn the fabric over.
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Slide the needle beneath several completed stitches.
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Pull the thread through gently.
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Trim the excess close to the fabric.
There is no need to tie a knot.
When changing colours, secure the old thread first, then choose the next colour from the pattern key and begin again.
Do not be discouraged when you make a mistake. Every stitcher does.
If you find a counting error:
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Compare the stitched area with the chart.
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Find where the mistake began.
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Remove only the stitches that need correcting.
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Restitch the area carefully.
Often, you can simply slide the needle beneath the incorrect stitches and gently work backwards.
Use scissors or a seam ripper only when necessary, and take great care not to cut the fabric.
It is also worth remembering that not every small mistake needs to be removed. If it does not change the overall design, you may decide to leave it.
A handmade piece does not need to be perfect to be beautiful.
Step 12: Finish your completed cross stitch
When you think you have finished stitching, compare your piece carefully with the pattern.
Check for missing stitches, incorrect colours, unfinished backstitch, loose thread ends or areas that still need correcting.
Some patterns include backstitch, half stitches or fractional stitches. These are usually added after the full cross stitches are complete.
Backstitch is often used for outlines, lettering and small details. Follow the lines on the chart and make straight stitches between the marked points.
Should you wash finished cross stitch?
Many completed cross stitch pieces can be gently washed, but always check that your fabric and threads are colourfast first.
This is especially important when using hand-dyed fabrics or threads, as some may bleed.
To wash your project:
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Fill a clean basin with cool or lukewarm water.
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Add a small amount of gentle, fragrance-free soap.
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Place the project in the water.
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Swish it gently without scrubbing.
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Rinse thoroughly.
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Lay it flat on a clean towel.
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Roll the towel gently to remove excess water.
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Unroll and leave the project flat to dry.
Do not wring or twist the fabric.
Once dry, place the piece face down on a clean, soft towel and press it with an iron gently from the back.
The towel cushions the stitches and helps prevent them from becoming flattened.
Lift and press the iron rather than dragging it across the fabric.
How can you finish a cross stitch project?
Once your stitching is clean and pressed, it is ready to be made into something special.
You might frame it, display it in a hoop, turn it into a cushion or pincushion, add it to a project bag, or finish it as a small ornament or needle book.
Our finishing sets and frames are a simple place to begin when you would like some of the finishing decisions to be made for you.
You can also add texture and personality with ribbons, chenilles and trims, hand-dyed velvets, or one of our charms and decorative pulls. A length of velvet, a beautifully aged ribbon or a tiny charm can turn even a very small piece of stitching into something that feels truly special.
One of the lovely things about cross stitch is that it can become part of so many different handmade projects. Before beginning a design, you may even like to imagine how you would eventually like to display or use it. A project with a purpose often feels especially meaningful.
A few gentle reminders for new stitchers
Good lighting makes a tremendous difference. Stitch near a window during the day or use a bright task lamp in the evening.
Sit somewhere comfortable, keep your shoulders relaxed and give your hands and eyes regular breaks.
Wash and dry your hands before handling the fabric and thread, and keep tea or coffee a safe distance away from your project. Many stitchers have learned that lesson the unfortunate way.
Try not to compare the back of your project with the perfectly tidy stitching you may see online. Neatness comes with time and practice.
Your first goal is simply to begin.
Cross stitch is not a race. Its beauty is found in the quiet rhythm of making one small stitch after another.
Frequently asked questions about cross stitch
Is cross stitch easy for beginners?
Yes. Cross stitch is one of the easiest forms of stitching to learn because the fabric provides a visible grid and the chart shows exactly where each stitch should be placed.
What fabric count is best for a beginner?
For a beginner who would like to stitch on evenweave linen, 28 count or 32 count worked over two fabric threads is often a comfortable place to begin. Twenty-eight count worked over two creates approximately the same stitch size as 14-count Aida.
How many strands of embroidery floss should I use?
The number of strands depends on the fabric count, the pattern and the coverage you prefer. Two strands are common on lower-count fabric, while one strand is often used on finer counts. Always check the pattern instructions first.
Do I need an embroidery hoop?
No. A hoop is optional, but many stitchers find that it makes the fabric easier to hold and helps keep the tension even.
Should I start cross stitch in the center?
Starting in the center is often the easiest method because it helps position the design correctly and ensures you have enough fabric around every side.
